The 2010 Nebbiolo pours into the glass with a picture perfect faded rim. The nose on opening, a little closed, yet showing licorice, earth, dried petals and warming spice. The fruit on the palate is restrained, but nothing holds back the tannin, and the wine is better for it. It’s is as long and fine and the flavour feels as though it unfurls, like a carpet revealing new patterns rolling forward. There are red fruits, leather, terrific acidity and more licorice and sweet spice. This wine is beautifully balanced. As you’re feeling the tannin on your cheeks, the fruit shows itself, persistant and crunchy, and before you know it, you’re remarking how long the wine is. This is really impressive and one of, if not the, best ‘Estate’ Nebbiolo from Pizzini I’ve seen. I’ve always considered Pizzini to be at the epicentre of Italianate styels in Australia, and this release only adds to that belief
James Halliday: 94 Leading out supple, finishing savoury and drawing out long and refined, it's perfectly ready to enjoy right away, yet a very fine nebbiolo tannin profile will will see it out for a decade. Layers of alluring violets, dried flowers, forest berries, mixed spice, anise, dried herbs and tomatoes characterise a complex and sophisticated style.
Wine Will Eat Itself: Pizzini are probably the closest we get to a Barolo/Barbaresco expression of Nebbiolo in Australia. Of course, if we heed the words of Northern Italian born philosopher Umberto Eco in his essay “Innovation and Repetition: Between Modern and Post-Modern Aesthetics”, we realise that this cannot be reduced to copying what has come before. Repetition is simply a pathway to “the infinity of the text”; Art (or wine’s) only aim “being to furnish…pleasure to the happy few, reserving fear and pity to the unhappy that remain”. In short, taking the model of Barolo or Barbaresco and moving it to the King Valley Region results in a new and individual take on Nebbiolo whilst continuing the serialised framework of varietal veracity which is inherently part of the grape.... And this wine is both varietal and regional. There is a fruit forwardness to it that is rarely seen in Italy yet it is not defined by primary fruit flavours. Red cherries, plummy depths and raspberry highlights provide balance to the strict, assertive tannin which marks Nebbiolo, making for a medium-bodied wine that can be enjoyed now. But it’s arguably the bay leaves, dried rose petals and spiced orange peel that give the wine its most alluring character – one we perhaps recognise from previous encounters overseas. Star anise, tar and pastrami add further to the complexity of interpretation and terroir. There’s so much pleasure on offer already yet surely more dimensions will arise in time. 93+ Very Good - Excellent
From the Winery: Classically pale in the glass, Nebbiolo is a deceptive and beautiful wine. The nose is all allure and seduction with classic deep rose petal perfume, plenty of anise-scented spice and bright red fruits. The palate's deep, juicy and mouth-filling red cherry and plum flavours run on sturdy tannins, laced with liquorice and finishing bright. Drinking very well now, it will develop more savoury complexity for a couple of years yet.
Don't Pay: $55.00
WBW Rating: 95/100
Closure: Stelvin
Region: King Valley, VIC
Winemaker: Joel Pizzini
Drink now until: 2025
Alc/Vol: 14 %